Rocky Mountains Near Cranbrook

Thursday 23 June 2011

Day 25, June 23rd, Ignace to Upsula (111km)

Typical Landscape Scene in Northern Ontario
Rain pelted my tent all night long.  Waking up to spitting rain, I gathered my gear and loaded my bike.  It was a really cold morning.  I pulled out my long sleeve cycling jersey to try and stay warm.  It's the last week of June and summer hasn't arrived in Northern Ontario.  Today was going to be interesting.  My quad was still stiff and the day hadn't started.  Throw in a bit of cold rain and I can honestly say, for the first time in a while, I wasn't looking forward to hitting the road.

Thick Forests Line the Trans Canada Highway
Northern Ontario is remote for good reason.  Some of the coldest temperatures in North America have been recorded out here during the long winters that never seem to end.  Today's final destination was a mere truck stop.  Essentially, there is nothing between Ignace and Thunder Bay.  The boreal forest of Ontario is the largest in Canada.  Spruce, Jack Pine and White Birch dominate treeline.  According to the information pamphlet, this forest represents 25% of the world's closed canopy forests.   Today's trip would take me through an endless sea of wetlands, forest and lakes.

English River
Hitting the road, I was pleased to have a tailwind.  Overnight, the winds had shifted and the prevailing winds reappeared.  What a difference a day can make.  I barely had to pedal.  The wind is that powerful out here.  Even climbing the hills felt effortless.  My left quad was aching by 30km and happy to get the break.  Looking at my map, I saw a town called English River at the 60km mark.  Hitting English River, I was pleased to find an outfitters station that doubled as a restaurant and a gas station.  Too lazy to set up the camping stove to cook in the rain, I stepped into the restaurant to grab some lunch.

So Many Scenes Like This
A couple guys from Thunder Bay had the same idea.  They had been out here fishing.  One of them told me this stretch of highway from Ignace to Thunder Bay was the most remote section of the Trans Canada through Ontario.  "Heck if your quad's hurting we can throw the bike in the back of the pickup and we'll have you in Thunder Bay before dinner time," one of them offered.  I thanked them for the offer, but it just wouldn't be right to accept it this far in to the trip.  Halfway into lunch, another cyclist walked in.  "Are you the guy with the Raleigh," he asked.  "Have a seat," I said.

Lake Scene Amongst the Forest
Matt is biking from East to West.  I've met a lot of tough blokes out here but Matt takes the cake.  Matt's primary source of funding for his trip is the ukulele strapped on to the back of his bike.  According to Matt, Thunder Bay is a great place to busk.  He made $155 in three days out there.  Enough, he says, to get him to Winnipeg where he'll raise additional funds.  At night, he free camps.  It's been a little rough.  A bear ripped open his pannier one night.  I guess Matt's lucky he doesn't keep the food near his tent. I sure hope Matt's a good musician.  It would suck to have to end a trip because of lack of funds.  Shaking hands, I stepped back outside.  Unlocking my bike,  I shook my head as I noticed the fishing rod strapped to Matt's bike.  Fresh fish is good when you can get it out here.

Upsula Gas Station & General Store (Up the Road)
The rest of the road to Upsula remained flat and fast.  I'm surprised at how dense the forest is out here.  Even though it had been raining, it's dry within the forest.  Matt had mentioned the forest out here is better then any campsite for keeping you dry.  Seeing the truck stop at Upsula that doubles as the campground, I thanked the tailwind for making it an easy day.  With a truck stop and a general store, Upsula is an oasis in the middle of nowhere.  The lady at the gas station even let me use the wireless internet that originates from her house at the campground.  I can't wait to get to Thunder Bay.  It's time for a break to get rid of these nagging injuries.

Fully Loaded Logging Truck
Distance: 111km
Average Speed: 22.2km/h
Maximum Speed: 46.4km/h
Time: 5:00
Odometer: 3142km

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