Day 9, June 7th, Cranbrook to Sparwood. (131km)

Rocky Mountain Sunrise

RV'ers!  They must be some of the friendliest people in the world.  They love a good story and word quickly spread in the RV Park that I was the guy on the bike on my way to Toronto.  A Montreal cycling team was parked across from my tent site.  They are a supported tour meaning the 3 riders are using super light racing bikes and have an RV to transport their gear.  A couple of lots down, an older couple offered me dinner and beer.  They were visiting their daughter in Cranbrook.  The old guy had some great stories, he must be 90 and he's been everywhere.  His daughter knew the upcoming road from Cranbrook to Sparwood like the back of her hand.  After talking with her, I knew where every hill, tunnel and town was going to be along the way.  I thought it would take the fun out of the surprise but it was impossible for her to describe the scenery.

Sky Mountains & River

Todays ride was spectacular!  The route followed a series of meandering rivers and lakes through Jaffray, Elko, Fernie and finally to Sparwood.  Panoramic views of the mountains had me looking sideways more often than forward.  From Cranbrook to Jaffray, the ride was downhill or flat.  Starting early, I had the opportunity to watch the sun slowly light up the side of the mountains.  While the ride was easy, the shoulder along the road was rough. I often found myself riding on the white line like a train rides a rail until conditions improved near Jaffray.

The View of the Mountains From Jaffray

Jaffray to Elko was a fairly smooth ride.  A couple of steep climbs outside Elko reminded me that I was still in B.C.  Nearing Elko, the mountains started closing in.  By the time I got to the general store in Elko, the clouds were threatening and the lady warned me that there was a heavy rain and thunderstorm warning.  She advised me to get to my final destination as quick as possible.  Nasty weather was coming my way.  On my way out of town, a cop pulled up and told me the same thing and asked if I had seen anyone else riding today.  They really take weather warnings seriously around here.

Tunnel on the Road From Elko

Leaving Elko, the road got rough.  Winter storms have left large pot holes on the shoulder and even on the surface between the lines.  I was riding in traffic at the mercy of the cars and trucks coming up behind me on the winding road.  Just before hitting a tunnel cut through the rock face of a mountain, fresh black asphalt reappeared.  During the last recession, the federal government poured a lot of stimulus money into infrastructure projects.  After some hairy moments outside Elko, I was happy to see a sign that said the project for repaving up to Fernie had been completed.

Mountains Get Larger Close to Fernie

Near Fernie, things really started to get fun.  The scenery was spectacular.  I ignored the threat of bad weather and kept stopping to take more pictures.  Better and better opportunities for pictures kept appearing the closer I got to the city.  It was magnificent. Beautiful mountains, tons of wildlife, raging rivers and a fast road for cycling.  Outside of a rest stop, I passed the Montreal cycling team.  I think they were surprised to see a soloist in a fully loaded touring bike blow by their group in strong headwinds.  The guys from Montreal are a bit older.  They were riding in a tight paceline because of the wind.  It's smart for them to use an RV to carry all their equipment and gear.  Tonight we ended up at the same campground again.  Tomorrow they want to go for Lethbridge.  At close to 200km it's a bit ambitious.

Entering Fernie, I stopped for lunch.  Fernie is beautiful.  The mountains are so close on all sides of the city.  Fernie's principal industry is tourism. Particularly, it's a major destination for winter sports.  There are some great ski mountains in this area and colder temperatures ensure that the powder is light and dry.  As I was chomping down on lunch sitting on the curb outside of Safeway, I struck up a conversation with a mother and daughter who were hanging out nearby.  The daughter told me some of the best coal in the world comes from mines around Fernie and Sparwood.  Her boyfriend drives one of the huge coal trucks.  She mentioned the world's largest truck is on display in Sparwood and that the 30km ride to get there wouldn't be too hard.

Dandelion Fields

As I left Fernie, I whipped past beautiful fields of dandelions.  I watched deer running across the fields and jumping the fences.  At one point a group of 3 deer were running parallel with me in a field along the road.  We kept glancing at each other like it was a race.  After almost a minute, I watched them jump a fence and disappear into the forrest.  The scenery here is surreal.  All of natures best elements are on display in this part of Canada.

My Bike, & Driver of Worlds Biggest Truck

The ride into Sparwood was fast and easy.  Near the town I ran into a short but tough little climb.  At 3pm, I checked out the only campground but a sign said that the office was closed until 4pm.  With the extra time, I made my way to the site of the worlds biggest truck.  Not only did I find the world's biggest truck, I also found the guy who drove it.  He told me that GM made the truck in London, Ontario.  Everything was overbuilt including the dual rear wheels.  At $60000 a tire it was a pretty expensive truck to maintain.  When they wanted to scrap the truck, he fought vehemently to have it displayed in front of the Tourist Center.  The old guy had a lot of great stories.  I took a picture of him and my bike beside the truck.  My bike looks like a toy compared to that thing.  It seems a lot bigger then the mining truck a Britannia Beach.

Looking Back At the Mountains 

At 4pm, I went back to the campground.  The bad weather was closing in and the rain started falling.  The lady who runs this place is top notch.  When she saw my touring bike,  she said tonights storm was going to be really bad and that I shouldn't go up the Crowsnest Pass this late in the day.  In the campground, there's a picnic area under a log shelter with a roof on it.  She told me I could pitch my tent in there and she would turn on the electrical power for my computer.  People in these small towns really go out of their way to help strangers.  I'm glad I stopped here tonight.  The rain is coming down like a waterfall and I've got a dry place for my tent tonight.  Tomorrow I cross into Alberta.  B.C. has been even more beautiful than I imagined.

Distance: 131km
Average Speed: 23.5km/h
Maximum Speed: 48.7km/h
Time: 5:35
Odometer: 1026km

Day 8, June 6th, Creston to Cranbrook (105km)

Sasquatch Stealing Canucks Gear

Frogs in the pond kept me up most of the night.  They were having a wild party on their Lily Pads that didn't stop until early morning.  I was camped across from the Columbia Brewing Company on a beautiful piece of grass.  The night would have been perfect except for the frogs.  The gaggle of birds woke me up early.  It was 5:00am.  I took a look outside my tent and saw the cloudy skies.  Someone had told me there could be thundershowers by the afternoon so I was determined to get off to an early start.  By 7am, everything was packed and I was ready to roll.  Looking across at the Columbia Brewing Company, I saw the sasquatch with his 12 pack of Kokanee.  Overnight, he had stolen a Canucks jersey and a hockey stick.  Too bad he didn't find any skates, he would have been terror on defense.

Train Stopped at Yahk

Today I headed towards Cranbrook.  In between Creston and Cranbrook is Yahk and Moyie.  A number of years back, Kyle Macdonald had a great idea.  He started off with one red paper clip and kept trading up until he traded for a house.  When interviewed on national T.V.  by George Stroumboulopoulos on The Hour, Kyle famously stated, "I will go anywhere in the world to make a trade except Yahk, British Columbia."  Of course his next trade ended up in Yahk B.C. and the rest is history.

For Sale, 80 Acres Under Water

Riding on cruise control, I blinked and almost missed Yahk.  A sign had said turn your clocks ahead.  I'm now in the East Kootenays on Mountain Time.  The rivers near Yahk are swollen.  Want to buy 80 acres near the riverfront?  The land is underwater right now.  At the only restaurant near the town, I had seen two racing bikes rigged with trailors parked outside.  What stopped me, was a gas station offering water and supplies.  The owner was an older fellow with emphysema who in a country drawl was quick to inquire "Where's your final destination son."  When I told him Toronto, he didn't bat an eye but offered, "Well, you won't make it there for dinner."  Looking out the window he said, "Are those guys with you?"

Marty From Burliington

The guys from the restaurant were passing in front of the gas station and gave a quick wave.  Hopping on my bike, I quickly caught up with the slower rider.  The stiff headwind was blowing his trailor all over the road. He said he could really feel the trailer as zig zagged behind his bike.  Leaving him behind, I took aim at the speed demon in the distance.  It took me almost an hour to catch Marty. Marty was rolling along at a pretty fast clip.  Like a predator I went after the prey.  After catching up, we both stopped and talked while waiting for his brother in law.  The Burlington boys are going to Newfoundland.  After 10 minutes, Marty's brother in law hadn't appeared so I resumed my trip.  Marty's a character and I hope to see him down the road.

1904 St. Pauls Chruch

The road to the next town was slightly uphill for most of the way.  Moyie is a small, abandoned mining town.  In the late 1800's, silver and lead were extracted from the ground at the Eugene Mine.  Like most small towns who's glory days have long gone by, the General Store and Church both seemed well preserved.  There's also a small gas station near the General Store for those looking to resupply.  St. Pauls Church in Moyie was of particular beauty so I quickly made a detour to take a picture.

Food for the Crows.

The rest of the ride through the Purcell Mountains into Cranbrook was smooth and easy.  To my right, I saw a gaggle of ravens with wildly flaying wings.  Looking over, I noticed a deer lay dead beside the road.  It was a sad sight to see but the deer is now a source of food for crows, flies and other animals that depend on nature's life cycle.  I stopped for a picture and resumed my trip to Cranbrook.

Today, Cranbrook serves as a major transportation hub for trains coming and going to the USA.  It is also the junction of major highways #3 & 93/95.  Past the mountains outside the city is Alberta...  Alberta, I can see it in the distance!  Rounding the bend 5km from Cranbrook provided me with my first glance of the Rocky Mountains.  I stopped to gawk in amazement.  A local pulled up and told me the view was a bit better down the road.  The contrast between snow capped peaks and the farming valley below is beautiful.  It won't be long before I leave B.C.  A days ride from here is Sparwood.  After Sparwood is the Crowsnest Pass and the border of Alberta.

The Rocky Mountains Peaking Over the Foothills.

Distance: 105km
Average Speed: 20.4km/h
Maximum Speed: 48.8km/h
Time: 5:05
Odometer: 895km

Day 7, June 5th, Nelson to Creston (118km)

Kootenay River Near Nelson

Rising in the morning to the sight of an empty dorm room, I packed my bags.  The White House in Nelson is a beautiful hostel.  Opening the window, I could already feel the heat. Today was going to be a scorcher!  I was getting up early to beat the heat.  The nice thing about starting off in Nelson is the amenities a big city has to offer.  A quick trip to Safeway and breakfast was served.  Today was going to be special.  My first destination was Balfor.  Balfor is home to the longest, free, fresh water ferry ride in the world.  This ferry takes over half an hour to cross Kootenay lake.

Racing to Balfor

Leaving Nelson I spotted the ferry schedule on a sign.  It was 8:30am and the sign said the next ferry sails at 9:50am.  After the 9:50am sailing, it would be past 11am before the next ferry sailed.  I was still 33km from Balfor.  This wasn't going to be your typical Sunday ride.  It was a time trial to make the early sailing.  Putting my head down, I drove the bike as hard as I could.  Luckily, most sections were flat but there were a few rolling hills.  Just before 9:30am, I hit the ferry terminal.  I had pushed really hard and averaged 34km/h.  I wish I could have stopped to take more pictures.  This ride along the lake was beautiful.

Line Up for the Ferry.  Near Crawford

I loaded my bike onto the Osprey.  As the ferry untied from it's moorings, it was quickly apparent that this was going to be  a beautiful trip.  There were so many nice cabins by the lake and barely a cloud in the sky.  On the ferry, I met a girl who wants to bike tour Canada one day.  She had such a positive, can do attitude that I really hope she gets her opportunity soon.  Everyone in and around these smaller cities is friendly. The ferry trip went by very quickly.  We were talking the whole trip so I hardly saw the scenery.  At the terminal is a steep hill that leads you up towards Crawford Bay.

Kootenay Lake Panoramic

The ride south along Kootenay Lake was spectacular.  Mind blowing panorama after panorama of the lake appeared through the trees.  On a break for lunch, 3 guys on bicycles pulled up to chat.  These guys were from Toronto and are riding from Vancouver to Newfoundland.  They all seemed like characters.  On a tight budget, they have been free camping.  They've even knocked on doors and stayed in peoples backyards.  For them. it really is a tour on a shoestring.  Today was their 10th day out of Vancouver.  At the moment, I'm 7 days out, so my pace is a bit quicker.  What's ironic is we've both run into the same people.  They knew about the two guys from Montreal and mentioned there are two French girls on the road ahead.  Apparently, I'm known as the soloist from Vancouver.  The guys offered me a place to stay when I hit Toronto.  My pace is a bit quicker, but hopefully we'll see each other down the road along the way.

Bear on the Road

Pushing on, I continued up and down a series of rolling hills.  A bear popped by to say hello.  From a distance, I stopped to take a picture.  After waiting a while, it didn't move so I decided to blow right by it.  As I neared the bear, it started to cross over to my side of the road.  My was heart pounding as I swerved around it. As I passed it, I could have literally patted it on the head.  It was surprising that he didn't run.  He looked pretty haggard.  It's been a long winter for bears this year. 

1913 General Store

After reaching the south end of Kootenay Lake, you enter an area of beautiful farmland.  I was out of water so I stopped at the 1913 Selkirk General store to try to fill my bottles.  The store was closed.  I rang the bell but no one answered.  After waiting 10 minutes, it was time to move on.  My situation was getting desperate.  It was too hot to to ride without water.  Luckily, a gas station appeared and I was able to get a couple of bottles of ice cold water.  In small towns, a lot of gas stations also double as liquor agents.  You can buy your beer and scotch while you fill up the tanks.  For cycle tourers, these outposts are a lifeline between population centers.  I try to support them as often as possible.  Without them, there would be long sections of highway where amenities are few and far between.  On these hotter days, I'm going to have to start carrying a lot more water.

Church in Creston

Today I made to Creston before 3pm.  I was happy to get here because the suns seems to be at its hottest between 1pm to 3pm.  Creston definitely has a more working class feel to it than the hippy town of Nelson.  Creston is famous for being the home of the Columbia Brewing Company.  Tonight I'm at a campground across the lawn.  I  look up and stare jealously at the Kokanee sign.

Farmland Outside Creston

Distance: 118km
Average Speed: 21.4km/h
Maximum Speed: 57.4 km/h
Time: 5:31
Odometer: 790km

Day 6, June 4th, Christina Lake to Nelson (122km)

The Climb Up Paulson Pass

The sign said it all... Next gas 74km.  It was 7am and I'd spent the better part of an hour scouring Christina Lake looking for supplies.  I was out of food and the only store open was Turbo Gas at the bottom of Paulson Pass.  With a sigh, I considered my options.  I could go to Turbo Gas for breakfast or ride 74km ride on an empty stomach.  A Cliff Bar from Turbo Gas would have to do, it was going to be hot today and there wasn't time to wait for the other stores to open.

Paraglider Paulson Pass

For 2 hours, I slogged away.  After 27km of uphill climbing, Paulson Pass didn't seem to be the horror others had mentioned on the internet.  Up to Paulson bridge at 1106m, the climb was gradual with no surprises.  Taking a break for a picture and another Cliff Bar, I crossed the bridge.  With only 429m of elevation left to gain, how hard could things get?  Then it got steep!  Crazy steep.  For a minute, I was tempted to shift to my granny gear.  I'd made it across B.C. this far without using it and I certainly wasn't going to use it now.  The sun was blasting me like an oven now, I was grilling.  My ears were on fire... they were getting sunburned.  I can't remember the last time that's happened.  Just before the 3 hour mark, I heard something that sounded like a chainsaw.  I looked all over but couldn't locate the source.  Looking up at the next bend, the source revealed itself.  A paraglider with a motor strapped onto his back appeared in the sky making his way around the bend down the pass above the road.  We waved at each other, the joy of this adventure is the sense if absolute freedom from the world that surrounds us.

Paulson Summit

After over 3 hours of climbing, I saw the avalanche gates. Normally these gates are found near the summit.  I was ecstatic.  The summit sign had to be near.  Racing down the hill past the avalanche gates, I rounded the bend only to see another climb in the distance.  This was no summit, it was a false summit.  Thirty more minutes of climbing got me to the top.  The summit ended up being 1535m.  Climbing it was difficult but, as memorable as the climb up was, it was the trip down to Castlegar the rocked my world.  For 40km, the road went down.  I startled a deer, it jumped over a fence.  The nearer I got to Castlegar the steeper it got.  Without regard for danger,  I started passing semi trailers on the left.  I was flying.  My fully loaded touring bike maxed out at 78.5km/h.  For a while a group of motor bikers let me draft behind them.  It was a wild and reckless descent that continued straight into town.  

Zamboni in Castlegar

Hitting the town, I paused and chatted up the bikers.  It had been an epic descent.  Castlegar was my lunch stop.  While riding the main road, a Zamboni passed the other way.  It's game day.  Cars honked and the bikers cheered.  Everyone was in good spirits.  After lunch, I continued towards Nelson.  Just outside of Castlegar, the Kootenay River appeared beside the road.  Almost immediately, the sound of rushing water reached a loud crescendo through the trees.  Beside the road a clearing appeared.  It was the viewpoint for Brilliant Dam.  

Brilliant Dam

During World War II, Cominco owned Canda's largest smelter in Trail, B.C.  This smelter was Canada's largest supplier of Zinc & Magnesium for arms and explosives.  Also in Trail, unbeknown to the public, was a top secret heavy water plant critical to the development of the Atomic Bomb.  With the smelter and heavy water plant running at full speed, electrical capacity needed to be increased.  To increase capacity, Brilliant Dam was built on the Kootenay River.  Between Brilliant Dam and the other 7 dams on this river, enough electricity is produced to power half a million homes.  On the trip along the Kootenay River from Castlegar to Nelson you see a number of these dams.  It really is a beautiful ride.

Old Houses on a Hill Nelson B.C.

Just before Nelson, I came onto a sad sight.  A black bear had been struck by a vehicle and was lying dead in a ditch.  There's so much wildlife in B.C. that these type of accidents seem inevitable. With Nelson down the hill around the bend, I put my bike in cruise control and rolled with the road. Nelson's history starts in 1886 when the Hall Brothers discovered silver, copper, gold and lead on Toad Mountain south of the city. Later, the city would diversify its industries to become a supply and distribution center as well as a major center for the forrest industry.

Historic Downtown

Nelson's a beautiful city with a funky vibe.  It's got Gas Town's historic architecture, Commercial Drive's ambiance and is a destination for outdoor enthusiasts who love skiing, kayaking or mountain biking.  This town really has that "Je ne sais quoi" feel to it.   It strikes me as a place that hasn't lost its roots or its character.  Tonight I'm staying at the White House.  The British president in the oval office runs a great place. If you ever make it out this way, I would highly recommend this hostel to any traveler.

View of Downtown Nelson

Distance: 122km
Average Speed: 18.6km/h
Maximum Speed: 78.5km/h
Time: 6:29
Odometer: 671km

Day 5, June 3rd, Greenwood to Christina Lake (66km)

Lake Fishing Near Greenwood

Ever notice how birds start singing at first light?  Today at 4:30am Greenwoods choir was louder than normal.  The birds were so loud, I couldn't fall asleep again.  I guess I shouldn't blame the birds, most people would scream if they jumped into a cold shower and today the morning dew was so thick that my tent was soaked.  At 800m, Greenwood is more than halfway up Eholt summit and it still feels like Winter up here.  Briefly, I contemplated starting early and pushing over Eholt summit (1028m), descending into Grand Forks (516m), then pushing up Paulson summit (1535m) before finally descending into Castlegar.   For once, common sense prevailed and I set out for Christina Lake just beyond Grand Forks.

Eholt Summit (1028m)

My first challenge today was the final 200m up to the top of Eholt summit.  Eholt was an easy climb.  At times, your legs would let you know you were climbing but your eyes would tell you the road ahead looked like it was sloping down.  This optical illusion played itself out all morning long.  It was a weird sensation because the downhill slope your eyes saw did not match the uphill slope your legs felt.  I had to look behind me several times for confirmation that I was going up a hill.  Mind games aside, I made Eholt summit well before noon.  There were no flowers on the summit sign this time so I wonder if I'm still chasing the couple I met in Osooyos or if I'm now being chased.  I put in a few dandelions just in case.

Descent Into Grand Forks

The 500m descent from Eholt to Grand Forks was fast but safe.  A strong headwind kept my speed in check.  For the final 5km, you are presented with sweeping views of the valley and orchards that surround the city.  I got into Grand Forks early.  So early that the restaurants were still serving breakfast.  Like most of the small towns in the area, Grand Forks Raison D'Etre was mining.  At one point, the huge copper mine at Grand Forks was the largest in the British Empire.  Mining would eventually cease and now the city is known for its fruit orchards.  It's often sunny here.  Locals always quickly point that out to travelers from Vancouver.  I quickly dropped by the municipal library to utilize the free WiFi and met a guy who biked across Canada 30 years ago.

Leaving Grand Forks on Route to Christina Lake

Leaving Grand Forks, I spotted Jolly Jacks Gas Station.  With a name like that, I had to grab a snack.  Jack's reputation definitely lives up to his name.  This guy was awesome.  When I rolled in on my bike to buy an ice cream cone, he said I was his first customer for ice cream for the season.  He really piled the stuff on there.  All I wanted was a scoop but it seems like I got half the pail.  Jack used to live all over the West Coast.  He loves the sunshine in Grand Forks and the attitude of the locals.  After the grand tour of the UV water treatment plant for his well water, he insisted on filling my water bottles with the best water in Grand Forks before I left.

Grand Forks to Christina Lake is a short ride.  Christina Lake sits at the base of Paulson Summit.  Like Greenwood, Christina Lake was home to interned Japanese Canadians during WWII.  Today it sits largely abandoned.  I found a really nice campsite tonight but when I went to Fields to stock up with supplies I had to look for the clerk that works there.  In a lot of these small towns you often have to call the owner of the store to get them to open it for you.  Time definitely travels at a different pace around here.

Distance: 66km
Average Speed: 19.7km/h
Maximum Speed: 51.1km/h
Time: 3:20
Odometer: 550km

Day 4, June 2nd, Osooyos to Greenwood (82km)

Taking a Break, Anarchist

In 1865, the discovery of gold at Wild Horse Creek 12 miles from Cranbrook led to demands by prospectors for the construction of an overland route to potential mine sites.  Edgar Dewdney, a 30 year old engineer who earlier built the wagon trail from Hope to Princeton, offered to build the 400 mile route for $50 000 within a year. Today, 80% of that trail is the Crowsnest Highway.  The trip from Osoyoos to Greenwood is a trip through abandoned mining towns whose glory days have long gone by.

Osoyoos From Anarchist Pass

To get to these towns, todays first challenge was Anarchist Pass.  Engine brakes, RV's with hazard lights blinking  and a broken down semi, this pass was tough on everyone.  Early in the climb, a semi passed me.  It took 10 full minutes for it to disappear around the bend in the distance.  At just over 8km, you are rewarded with your last view of Osoyoos.  After a 25km climb and a couple of false summits, you finally hit the Anarchist Summit at 1233m.

1233m Summit w. Flowers.

Last night, I met a young couple touring Canada.  While they were traveling slower than me, they planned to leave at 5am in an attempt to reach Grand Forks.  Without a map or a plan, they had no knowledge of the climb, so I gave them fair warning of what lay ahead.  They asked me to climb with them but 5am is a little early so I declined.  Jokingly, they told me they would let me know if they made it up the pass.  Today when I hit the summit, someone had left 2 bouquets of flowers sticking out from the iron poles that reveal the summit. I guess they made it, so I added a few dandelions to celebrate the climb.

Trading Post Rock Creek

The descent from Anarchist is steep and fast. Blowing by lush grass meadows sparsely populated with smaller trees, I soon entered the old mining town of Rock Creek, population 50.  Over 100 years ago, the discovery of gold made Rock Creek a hub of activity.  It's time in the spotlight was brief, but there was a beautiful trading post built in about 1860 that offers coffee and WiFi so I took the opportunity to update yesterdays post and ask about the road ahead.

Entering Midway

From Rock Creek to Midway is flat, fast downhill riding.  With Greenwood a shortway on, I pushed forward up some rolling hills.  Near Greenwood, a farmer has capped each of his fence posts with a hat.  It was quite the sight to see as there must have been over 100 of them.  Forging through the abandoned mining area of Boundary, I quickly made it to Greenwood.

Canada's Busiest Road

Greenwood... this city is fascinating.  Where can a guy meet a Japanese cowgirl? Only in Greenwood.   Upon entering the town, you feel like you're on the set of an old Western movie.  Until 1918, the Motherlode mine extracted copper and gold from the surrounding area.  With its smelters and mine, this was a large city.  After World War I, the decline of precious metal prices lead to the closure of the mine.  At one time, Copper Street in Greenwood was the busiest road in Canada.  After 1918, the city was largely abandoned.  Today Greenwood is recognized as Canada's smallest city.

Historic Greenwood.

During World War II, the abundance of empty buildings lead the Canadian government to use the city as an internment site for 1200 Japanese Canadians.  It was a fairly miserable existence with up to 20 families having to share 1 kitchen and 1 bathroom but they endured without complaint.  The Japanese community transformed this abandoned city into a bustling community.  After WWII, when Canada endorsed the deportation of its Japanese citizens, the city of Greenwood stood fast in supporting its community.  Today the legacy remains and many Japanese families have roots in this town.  As the sign says in Greenwood, out of the 23 512 enemy aliens interned during WWII, there was never a single act of treason.  As the Japanese say "Shikata-ga-nai" or "Life Goes On."

Descent Into Rock Creek

Distance: 82km
Average Speed: 16.6km/h
Maximum Speed: 61.5km/h
Time: 4:56
Odometer: 484km

Day 3, June 1st, Princeton to Osooyos (119km)

Bambi Near Princeton

After spending yesterday grinding up the hills, today was a day of downhill biking. Starting in Princeton, the Crowsnest Highway follows the Similkameen river through Hedley and Keremos before breaking away from the road about 40km from Osoyoos. Near Princeton, I saw a lot of deer. While gawking at the wildlife, two randonneurs from Montreal pulled up to say hello. These guys were flying. They were riding the type of road bike that is so light it can barely support the weight of its rider. By credit card touring from hotel to hotel and carrying next to nothing, their plan was to zoom to Montreal in 25 days. To do it they're going to need to average close to 200km a day.

Church on a Hill Near Hedley

My first stop of the day was Hedley. Hedley is an abandoned mining town just outside of Princeton. Just before Hedley, I stopped by a shop that is world famous for making beef jerky. When I pulled up on my bike, the lady gave me a free stick of pepperoni. The local residents of this town have a lot of pride. So much pride, that they opened the closed mining museum for me and a group of Germans touring in a bunch of RV's. The people of Hedley really make you feel special for stopping by.

Oh Keremos!

After leaving Hedley I quickly covered the remaining distance to Keremos.  Fighting through headwinds and a downpour, I was rewarded with breathtaking views. Keremos was beautiful. It's nestled along the Similkameen river in a valley surrounded by mountains. I quickly found the only bakery in town which was owned by a German immigrant who had moved here 3 years ago. The bread and breakfast rolls were awesome.  I guess when everyone town knows you, you have to be good at what you do.  According to the bakery owner 2 or 3 people are coming through town on bikes each day.  

Spotted Lake Healing Sight

As I exited Keremos and pointed my bike towards Osooyos, the trees started disappearing, the air got drier and meadows of grass and brush lined the hills. This is wine country.  As far as the eye could see, wineries dotted the hills.  The owners of these wineries are awesome.  Stop in, and more often then not, they'll offer you a glass of wine.  25Km before Osooyos is a 250m climb over 7km. The winding road seems to be the cause of a lot of accidents. Little shrines marked the spots all over the place. Near the summit, I ran into an ancient native healing site named Spotted Lake. Descending from Spotted Lake, Osooyos came into view well before hitting the city. I quickly crossed the bridge over the lake and set up camp on the shore. This town is all about RV's. It's a great place for retired people chasing sunny skies.   

View on the Descent Into Osooyos

Distance: 119km
Average Speed: 19.3km/h
Maximum Speed: 65.6km/h
Time: 6:09
Odometer: 402km