Day 4, June 2nd, Osooyos to Greenwood (82km)

Taking a Break, Anarchist

In 1865, the discovery of gold at Wild Horse Creek 12 miles from Cranbrook led to demands by prospectors for the construction of an overland route to potential mine sites.  Edgar Dewdney, a 30 year old engineer who earlier built the wagon trail from Hope to Princeton, offered to build the 400 mile route for $50 000 within a year. Today, 80% of that trail is the Crowsnest Highway.  The trip from Osoyoos to Greenwood is a trip through abandoned mining towns whose glory days have long gone by.

Osoyoos From Anarchist Pass

To get to these towns, todays first challenge was Anarchist Pass.  Engine brakes, RV's with hazard lights blinking  and a broken down semi, this pass was tough on everyone.  Early in the climb, a semi passed me.  It took 10 full minutes for it to disappear around the bend in the distance.  At just over 8km, you are rewarded with your last view of Osoyoos.  After a 25km climb and a couple of false summits, you finally hit the Anarchist Summit at 1233m.

1233m Summit w. Flowers.

Last night, I met a young couple touring Canada.  While they were traveling slower than me, they planned to leave at 5am in an attempt to reach Grand Forks.  Without a map or a plan, they had no knowledge of the climb, so I gave them fair warning of what lay ahead.  They asked me to climb with them but 5am is a little early so I declined.  Jokingly, they told me they would let me know if they made it up the pass.  Today when I hit the summit, someone had left 2 bouquets of flowers sticking out from the iron poles that reveal the summit. I guess they made it, so I added a few dandelions to celebrate the climb.

Trading Post Rock Creek

The descent from Anarchist is steep and fast. Blowing by lush grass meadows sparsely populated with smaller trees, I soon entered the old mining town of Rock Creek, population 50.  Over 100 years ago, the discovery of gold made Rock Creek a hub of activity.  It's time in the spotlight was brief, but there was a beautiful trading post built in about 1860 that offers coffee and WiFi so I took the opportunity to update yesterdays post and ask about the road ahead.

Entering Midway

From Rock Creek to Midway is flat, fast downhill riding.  With Greenwood a shortway on, I pushed forward up some rolling hills.  Near Greenwood, a farmer has capped each of his fence posts with a hat.  It was quite the sight to see as there must have been over 100 of them.  Forging through the abandoned mining area of Boundary, I quickly made it to Greenwood.

Canada's Busiest Road

Greenwood... this city is fascinating.  Where can a guy meet a Japanese cowgirl? Only in Greenwood.   Upon entering the town, you feel like you're on the set of an old Western movie.  Until 1918, the Motherlode mine extracted copper and gold from the surrounding area.  With its smelters and mine, this was a large city.  After World War I, the decline of precious metal prices lead to the closure of the mine.  At one time, Copper Street in Greenwood was the busiest road in Canada.  After 1918, the city was largely abandoned.  Today Greenwood is recognized as Canada's smallest city.

Historic Greenwood.

During World War II, the abundance of empty buildings lead the Canadian government to use the city as an internment site for 1200 Japanese Canadians.  It was a fairly miserable existence with up to 20 families having to share 1 kitchen and 1 bathroom but they endured without complaint.  The Japanese community transformed this abandoned city into a bustling community.  After WWII, when Canada endorsed the deportation of its Japanese citizens, the city of Greenwood stood fast in supporting its community.  Today the legacy remains and many Japanese families have roots in this town.  As the sign says in Greenwood, out of the 23 512 enemy aliens interned during WWII, there was never a single act of treason.  As the Japanese say "Shikata-ga-nai" or "Life Goes On."

Descent Into Rock Creek

Distance: 82km
Average Speed: 16.6km/h
Maximum Speed: 61.5km/h
Time: 4:56
Odometer: 484km